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There are three dimensions to being cool in Paris: owning an iPhone, wearing Converse shoes, and eating sushi – at least twice a week. Failing to fulfill one of these conditions will make the Parisian lame, old and uncool.
Over the past two years, sushi has become cool Parisians’ (read under 40yo Parisians – for most Parisians under 40yo are absolutely convinced of the fact that they are cool) food of choice. If a Parisian eats out for lunch with his colleagues every day, it is simply impossible not to go sushi at least once a week. Impossible.
Sushi restaurants have flourished everywhere in Paris. They are usually owned and operated by Chinese people. It is amusing to notice that just like the other two dimensions of cool, sushi in Paris has mostly been made popular by Americans and is mostly made by Chinese people.
As the Parisian first starts eating sushi, he first feels like he is penetrating the secret and precious world of Japanese gastronomy – New York style. Thrill of differentiating culinary exploration. He then realizes that sushi seems to be low in fat and rather cheap. So he starts consuming it more regularly – gains confidence. When the Parisian gains confidence, gentle respect and cryptic devotion turn into absurd self-importance and outrageous rudeness. That is when the Parisian starts making fun of the Chinese accent of the waiter.
In most sushi restaurants in Paris, menus are quite comfortably repetitive and kindly made intelligible with pictures. Parisian men tend to opt for the sushi – brochettes menu. Parisian women, in a noble attempt to minimize caloric impact of their meal, usually favour sashimi. When the Parisian takes someone from province to a sushi restaurant, he will usually show him how to use sticks and will order for him. The Parisian is well-travelled and always considerate.
On top of the myriad of Chinese-owned sushi places, Paris has become very big on sushi delivery. Companies that operate on this market are more into marketing, and not operated by Chinese people. Every other Parisian under 40yo orders sushi on Sunday night.
Sooner or later, sushi eaters will claim to love Japanese food. ”La cuisine japonaise, tu vois, c’est hyper fin, moi j’aime beaucoup“. Loving Japanese food implies nothing but enjoying sushi. The apotheosis of this culinary escalation is the discovery of La Rue Sainte-Anne. 
La Rue Sainte-Anne is Paris’ little Tokyo: one Japanese restaurant after the other. On his first visit to a Japanese restaurant on rue Sainte-Anne, the Parisian will enjoy the pioneering excitement of finally entering the world of “real” Japanese food, with “real” Japanese people cooking and waiting tables. On Rue Sainte-Anne, he will start dismissing sushi (ignorant food) and venture like the true explorer he has always been into sobas, udons, okonomiyakis… He will then start taking friends Rue Sainte-Anne – or more precisely taking them to ”un ptit resto japonais que j’adore, tu vas voir” (conveniently enough – that one restaurant is usually the only one he’s been to). Taking friends there, the Parisian will systematically warn them with the hint of condescendence that is the real cement of a true Parisian friendship “Attention par contre: c’est du vrai japonais, y a pas de sushi, hein“.
Being beyond yet not over one of the attributes of cool is a very Parisian response to the dictatorship of cool: I’m still cool, but I’m also more than cool.
If you do the math, that makes the Parisian super cool.
Useful tip: Unless you love lines, don’t try la Rue Ste Anne on a Saturday night.
Sound like a Parisian: “Oh, hier soir, j’suis resté à la maison, tranquillou, commandé des sushis, rien de spécial…”
Tags: Asian, food, fun, Japanese, Paris, Parisian, restaurant, sushi, sushi in paris, trend
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Quel embarras de richesses! I return from my hols to read not one, but two wonderful blog entries in one day. You’ve made my day!
I’ve noticed the growing interest in sushi here in France over the last few years – even down here in the south.
I find the boxes of frozen sushi chez Picard especially amusing!
OMG, this is one of the topics that really makes me angry.
Everything is wrong about sushi restaurants in Paris and in general the sushi craze that has taken the Western world over recently.
Where can I start?
As you mentioned, most sushi restaurants in Paris are managed by Chinese people, but Parisians won’t care, after all, those Asians are all the same (one idea for a future post for you Olivier: why is condescending behavior and more generally racism against Asians socially acceptable in Paris?)
And the blame has to be put on the Chinese that run such restaurants too, as they just don’t care about misinforming ignorant people about what they do: pretending to be Japanese and sell sushi of usually crappy quality, when they could educate Parisians about real Chinese cuisine, or if they insist on making sushi, real sushi of good quality.
But of course, if one wants to eat good quality sushi, one won’t pay 15€ in Paris.
In the end, Parisians will think they know Japanese cuisine, when they don’t even know real sushi (at least, those who go to rue Ste Anne will eat genuine cuisine, even if they won’t be able to stop bragging about it)
And finally, this craze for sushi (and the fact that Westerners don’t seem to be aware that tuna and salmon are not the only fish in the world) is the main reason why tuna will be an extinct species in the near future.
OMG! I was reading the article and thought, “Ohhhhh, I can’t WAIT to see what David has to say about this… since David and I see I2I on sushi related things… me being from Cali, and him being the other half Japanese… So, we’re both some type of experts…
So, I’m going to comment here BEFORE I read his comment above mine.. How funny that he is right above me! Hi David!!
Okay, so I got my hubby into sushi when we were in L.A. at my parents fav. shusi resto– Taka sushi in the Valley… AND, ever since I moved to the Paris area from San Diego, I’ve been looking for good sushi.. I mean REALLY good sushi… So, we found it in our town (Antony) and we just had some tonight! We’re sooo cool!! He’s Parisian, I’m not.. but I feel cool by association!!! Great post! Leesa
Awesome blog! I started reading from the “Foreign Girls” entry and went back to read all your previous posts. :]
You forgot to mention, they will also go away thinking sushi rice should be sweet. And that Japanese people drown their rice in soya sauce without worrying about kidney failure.
Peter… Well, that’s a bit excessive but thank you very much!
Loulou… Globalization does get chilly at times…
David… Your comment cracked me up. I did write a post called “Generalities about Chinese people” I believe which touches these subjects. I don’t think Chinese culture these days is very much about educating other human beings. Money money money is what it’s all about. Computers, clothes, sushi… whatever sells – always at the cheapest price. Ok – here’s my question now: best sushi in Paris?
Leesa… Feels quite strange that readers of this blog know each other while I don’t really know any of them. Anyway. I had good cali-style sushi recently at this place called Rice & Fish in the 2nd. Also – great memories in LA at this Japanese joint on West 3rd St., just off La Cienega. I think it’s called Izakaya but I’m not sure.
Jes… Well… bienvenue! Thank you very much for your kind words. I’m glad you enjoy my little posts.
Umami… Do you think this is the Chinese’s secret revenge against Japan? Also, apparently in Japan, you’re supposed to grab sushi with your hands – not sticks. Also, if you start worrying about soy sauce, you should also worry about mercury levels in sushi!
Hehehe… we need more Japanese sushi place with conveyor belt – there isn’t enough of them
Now, I wonder how to make bubble tea super cool in Paris. There’s only one place selling it as far as I know. Why aren’t the Taiwanese (Chinese) doing more to rectify this?
(Ah I miss Paris – due to fly out today but due to unforeseen circumstances, I’m not on my way to the airport as scheduled… snif)
I consider Rice and Fish more of a California-style sushi place, which I like a lot. I haven’t been here in Paris long enough to find an authentic sushi spot, however.
so olivier, do you have an iphone, wear converse, and eat sushi????
Olivier: Best sushi in Paris: Hotaru, 18, rue Rodier, 75009.
End of story.
And pray that they have “toro”, the day you go (cause like in any REAL sushi restaurant, you won’t choose what fish you get, you’ll get what the chef decided to buy because it looked the best and the freshest that day)
Oh yeah, and if I see one more Westerner pour shoyu (soy sauce) in the rice, I think I’ll just murder them on the spot.
@Lil I was really upset that I couldn’t get bubble tea in Paris!
Ugh… I remember I was so disappointed in the Japanese restaurants but my ex kept dragging me to eat sushi at least once a week. He ordered the brochettes of course. heeehee :]
@David Please don’t murder anyone.
Jes, I’ll try not to.
And you can get bubble tea (which is from Taiwan, not Japan… hum, hum…) in Paris, there’s at least one place on rue Quincampoix that sells it.
Another tip to recognize a real sushi restaurant from a fake one: a real sushi restaurant doesn’t sell yakitori (brochettes).
And real yakitori restaurants (I don’t think there are any in Paris) don’t sell sushi, and the brochettes are made with chicken only.
“Yakitori” means “grilled chicken” btw (tori= chicken, yaki=grilled).
@David I’ll definitely try to look for that bubble tea place next time I’m there (hopefully soon?). I’ve had it in a little restaurant in the 13e, but it wasn’t so good.
I really thought the yakitori menu was bizarre. They had this option in every “sushi restaurant” I was dragged into. When we want those yummy chicken-on-a-stick, we have to go to a yakitori restaurant.
And I really have to agree with Olivier about the Chinese running these restaurants… they are just trying to make that $$$ (€€€). :]
Whew! What a relief to have read your post.
I thought I was just imagining the envious looks as I walked back to my place, carrying a take-out bag from Sushi Shop.
I remember daring my kids to try sushi when they were little. And regretted it when they loved it, and suddenly sushi for all of us became incredibly expensive.
But eating sushi in Paris? I’d be too confused to find my way home.
arrrghhhhh Olivier.
You killed me…
funny, and true, but more : being on the move from Belgium to France, I think of buying that phone everybody has, I like converse shoes and love sushi…
For God’s sake I am moving to Montpellier
where wine can be fantastic… and nobody cares about your phone or shoes…
The lines about rue Ste Anne are fantastic.
…
A good friend of mine took me to a REAL japanese sushi restaurant a while ago : tastier, richer, different, fresher… and at least twice as expensive
Now I don’t go to Ste Anne any more… and if ever I go there, I’ll hide my phone, my shoes…
Stéphan
Lil… Conveyor belts are a rarity in Paris for sure. A few Matsuri restaurants opened in Paris though over the past few months. Qualité inégale je trouve.
FN… Well, now we all have David’s recommendation!
Erica… 2 out of 3. Sorry Olivier, you are dismissed.
David… Thanks for your tips and knowledge. I do love to see people get heated up about things like this. The idea of murdering someone for pouring soy sauce in rice in very Kitanoesque. I’ll definitely try Hotaru. And for sure show off with my new Yakitori knowledge.
Jes… The blue helmet! I’ve noticed a strong tendency amnongst Americans in Paris to bi.tch about two things: 1. quality of sushi in Paris and 2. absence of Mexican food. Is it ok if I don’t know what bubble tea is? (I don’t drink tea but this one sort sounds funny).
Future pilot… Envious looks? Really?
Ruth… Cute story. Good news is: you could have had them try Chateau d’Yquem. Then you would really have regretted it!
Stephan… You are officially cool. Extra credits for moving to Montpellier – such a nice area to move to. A bit of the French spirit still survives there: George Freche, Loulou Nicollin… Pour moi une region et des habitants qui font vraiment aimer la France.
So true – and so funny
aurélie
I love Sushi!
But what’s the link between Sushi and NY?
(Other than considering everything having a link with NY)
Olivier,
Thanks for your inputs – I’ll try to be the Dude of Montpellier then.
I’ll wave hello to Georges and Loulou, and coming back to Paris to show my shoes and phone, I’ll pass by to discover your O Chateau !!!!!!!
Stéphan
re Chinese selling crappy sushi: they are probably like most of the *many* Greek resto owners in the States. they don’t care about “authentic”, they’re just doing business and they will sell whatever people are willing to pay for. and who says they should care about authentic? the diner can eat where (s)he likes.
“Attention par contre: c’est du vrai japonais, y a pas de sushi, hein”. Made me laugh so much! I had a friend practically mirror this comment while I was living in Paris.
Also, maybe I just don’t eat enough of it here in NY, but the sushi I had in Paris was some of the best I’ve had!
OK, I am not a cool Parisian. 2 out of 3. Not a big fan of sushis. .. Yes, it happens.
Really liked your previous post about the café gourmand. On assiste à un revival, c’est sûr !
Aurelie… Merci merci.
Jost… Sushi has this cool/new/likable ethnic/vibrant vibe to it: New York. Plus it’s the whole Gossip girl/Sex and the City syndrom too. Logic of imitation of cool NYers by other Westerners.
Stephan… Many good wines to taste in the area too. Please probably a tad sunnier than Belgium! Anyway… if you come to O Chateau, just shoot me an email beforehand.
Vinny… Yup, most people prefer to buy more than better these days. In food as in everything else. It’s a pity but we’re soon to reach the end of that ugly and stupid logic. So let’s rejoice!
Samantha… So you went to both a good sushi and a real Japanese place during your stay?
Noodle… But you read this blog… extra credits for that!!
@jes Oh, I must say I haven’t try hunting for bubble tea in the 13th. If you can remember where you were, let me know and I’ll try to avoid that one since you don’t think it’s good.
I went to ZenZoo (13 Rue Chabanais, 75002; http://www.zen-zoo.com/) and it’s a really small shop but I got a decent bubble tea fix there
@Olivier 1-Aww I don’t mean to sound like I’m b*tching… it’s just sushi in Paris gives me bitter memories. We have our share of crappy sushi restaurants here! 2- Don’t get me started on the guacamole. 3- No it’s not ok… jk .
@Jost Everything has a link to NY. :]
@Lil I don’t think that you’ll have to try so hard to avoid this place. The server didn’t speak any French and my friends asked her in Chinese if they had any bubble tea because I wanted some. It wasn’t even on the menu!
I’m also 2/3… and therefore dismissed. Sigh
@jes Ah, but I speak Chinese
From the 3 items, I am none of them. I guess I am so not cool in Paris then…
Olivier
thanks !
I’ll keep on reading SPL, and will send you an email in any case before discovering your châto !!!
Merci beaucoup !
Stéphan
et là dans cette note j’ai reconnu TOUS mes amis parisiens!
/ une provinçiale
Des trucs qu’on dit en Province : “tu connais un bon sushi? Ah non vraiment, on a pas de chance, quand je pense qu’à Paris il y a tellement de choix!”
Hey D…
You would probably murder me twice then, what with me pouring sweet sauce on my sushi!!! Oh… wait, maybe I’ll just drizzle some katsup all over it instead! : )
Oliver– You and D should meet sometime.. He’s a very great guy in person… Nothing like he is on the comments section or on his blog..
hehehe; )
Lil… I’ll try that then.
Plus j’avance en age, plus je l’aime cette province.
Jes… You can find good guacamole in Paris… just have to look for it!
Damn… no one’s cool in here! Man! Need to upgrade my readers!
Stephan… Cheers!
Kana…
Leesa… I’ll just quote my idol here (that’s Chris Rock): “If you wanna help me out here, introduce me to some girls!!” – But you’re right… I should try and have an SPL party at the caves one of these nights.
And while we’re on the topic, here is a video to learn how to eat Sushi properly:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bDL8yu34fz0&feature=player_embedded
Je suis écroulée de rire – un fin connaisseur des parisien(ne)s. Je passe par la rue Ste Anne régulièrement en allant vers la BNF mais je n’ai jamais mangé dans les restos japonais (d’ailleurs, la raison est *top parisienne attitude*, puisque j’emmène, accrochons-nous, un …bento. Et toc).
David… This video made my day! Merci!!
Colloquial Cook… Alors ca, c’est un format parisienne next generation… never heard of bringing your own Bento somewhere. You are a pioneer!
Ahhh, mais si, enfin
avant, les filles se faisaient des boîtes repas avec des carottes râpées et une pomme. Maintenant elles se font des bentos avec des carottes coupées en forme de Hello Kitty, et des quartiers de pomme pelés comme des lapins (http://lunchinabox.net/2007/12/13/how-to-make-apple-rabbits/), le tout élégamment séparé par des petites bordures en herbe plastifiée vert pomme. Faut vivre avec son temps, gniak gniak .
Bon, cela dit je vais essayer d’être pionnière pour autre chose, parce que c’est quand même sympa d’être pionnier.
Who cares what people buy/eat.
It’s the economy, stupid.
Things need to be cool/uncool for money to change hands. Ya, apparently having a specific phone makes you a more substantial human being in the 21st century.
What progress.
I guess I’ll have to just make due with the iPhone. for I rarely wear sneakers. As for sushi … ick comes to mind.
Hi! Iam in Paris since the beginning of december and I love this City. Iam traveling through Europe this year and I write hotel reviews for my company. I also ate Sushi and it was very delicious.
best regards Michael
Well, I don’t have an iPhone (couldn’t be bothered), I detest Converse sneakers (a decided lack of imagination, if you ask me), I’ve never liked sushi (the smell alone makes me faint plus I’ve never been very fond of hepatitis), and I’m exactly forty years old. Where DOES that leave someone like me?
Bonne année Olivier and everyone!
Restaurant KOBA
7, Rue de la Michodière, 75002
Modest little place that looks like a fish market! Gigantic portions of thick, yummy sushis, makis and sashimis. Here are some comments: http://www.fra.cityvox.fr/restaurants_paris/koba_68574/Profil-Lieu
Bonne appétit!
Colloquial Cook… Etonnant comme Parisienne et pionnière ne riment pas!
Jake… Thanks for your input.
Max… Gotta love post-modernity!
Thomas… I know what to wish for you in 2010 then!
Michael… Cool!
John… Hmm… Join le maquis?!
Jes… Merci bcp. Best wishes to you too.
Filip… Will look it up! Thx.
Olivier, am finally catching up on your blog, and this post made me laugh so hard. My bro-in-law and his girlfriend (remember them?), who are the archetypical ‘cool’ smug Parisians, told me and Mon Francais that they were taking us out for our birthday. ‘Oh lucky me,’ I’m thinking, ‘that probably means sushi.’ Despite having told them several times that I used to live with a Japanese family, they proceded to ‘explain’ sushi to us ignorami. See, they met a Japanese person once, so they are experts, and they only go to ‘authentic’ sushi places now… Gah! Worst bit is, I left hungry. What’s the point of living in Paris if you can’t stuff yourself?
BTW, if you have a SPL party you must let me know, and I will try to bring cute, single foreign girls!
Accidental Parisian… Well, welcome back! Sorry about this post, didn’t mean to cause post-birthday family drama! As per the SPL party, yeah, maybe I should try to have one. Thank for such a kind thought. Je ne dis pas non.
so funny… but no one should say the Japanese restaurants on rue Saint Anne are “so parisiens” as they are probably the most affordable japanese restaurants of Paris where you actually get food made by japanese… and they are also crowded with japanese – which is a good sign…
ZenZoo is an amazing restaurant that makes cuisine from Laos.
a very good japanese restaurant is the one in le Marché des Enfants rouges, rue de Bretagne ! succulent, and cheap… na na, you are welcome…
Tangerine… Thanks for the tips!