O Blog – interviews with wine makers

Remy Pédréno- Domaine du Roc d’Anglade

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009


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What is your job? Winemaker

Where is your domaine? In Langlade, a village that has been known for its wine since Louis XIV was King.

Why did you choose wine? The idea just came to me one day; it sort of just appeared out of nowhere, and in it I found a true form of myselfand of self-expression.

Describe your wines in one word. Sincere.

Your best wine moment? Any moment that I’m sharing with others.

Your favorite dish? Anything that you eat in its most simple and honest state.

Your favorite film? The last one that moved me.

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? A mystery that is completely inseparable from, or dependent on, mankind.

A quotation about wine? A song full of light and fraternity- Baudelaire

What are you most proud of? When I bring out the best of myself.

Your dream? To live it.

Your idea of happiness? To be.

An essential quality? Allowing yourself to open up to others.

pedreno2The most beautiful place on earth? The ground.

Your favorite swearword? “Noun d’edienne,” my grandfather’s swearword when he was really mad (he never swore).

Your motto? For 2009, “Act today, so you don’t regret it tomorrow”

Any last words? Wine is not an ending but rather a means, one of bringing people together.

Nicolas Joly- Domaine de La Coulée Serrant

Thursday, September 3rd, 2009

What is your job? Winemaker, meaning I try to understand the complexity of nature through what the vine is capable of creating if it’s well-taken-care-of.

Where is your domaine? In the Loire, on a site found almost nine centuries ago (1130) by the Cistercians. They were masterminds of the efficacy of the land and planted the vine that has been there since. 2008 was its 879th vintage running.

Why did you choose wine? After having worked for banks in the US and England, I felt a strong desire to return back to nature, something I felt I had neglected. My mother was looking after the vineyard; and the vine was there waiting for me.Describe your wines in one word. My wines are the result of the vine’s work, who, after summer, surround its seed (the grape) with a juicy pulp. Like any vine, it takes in the climate through its leaves and the soil in through its roots; however, every varietal does it its own way. Here, the varietal is Chenin and its cycle is long. Chenin is like a difficult child: when understood well it becomes genius; if not, it becomes rebellious. The wines from la Coulée de Serrant are unique because the domaine is so unique. This is why la Coulée de Serrant, in itself, is its own AOC.

Your best wine moment? I feel that the best moments happen when one is met with a sort of truth, void of all flattering artifice that presents a notion of beauty attained almost surgically (e.g. the technology that now gives us 300 different flavors). A moment, to me, is real when it’s the result of the truthful expression of a place.

Your favorite dish? Food simplified to its most basic state, as long as it comes from the right places. Leeks with vinaigrette, certain kinds of sushi, goat cheese from the South (as long as the goat lived outside without any hormones)

Your favorite film? La belle verte de Coline Serreau

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? A terroir is the result of an unknown process (a force, even) that is fully contingent on its microclimate and its specific geology. Therefore, there are rules that can’t be ignored when ensuring that the terroir truly reveals itself through its wine or food. First and foremost, you can’t treat it with chemicals composed of molecules that have been denatured to a point where the workers who apply them must wear an oxygen mask and a bodysuit. The AOC’s two biggest enemies are the most prevalent chemical treatments used on the vine. First, there are the systemic treatments that seep into the plant and therefore into the sap. Since the sap is the only link between the plant and the sun, poisoning it then ruins this very crucial channeling of the taste generated by the climate. Second, the weed killers end up also killing the microorganisms in the soil, meaning they are ultimately taking away nourishment for the roots, and therefore from what terroir has to present in its wine.

A quotation about wine? “La Coulée de Serrant is one of the five best white wines in France” Curnonsky

What are you most proud of? Having taught another point of view of agriculture to youths all around the world; that it will turn back into an art form once we all begin to understand that the microcosm inherent in each terroir is the exact contradiction of a macrocosm. Teaching them that the art of agriculture is honing the surrounding natural forces that give life to the terroir. And finally teaching them about biodynamics, how it is a difficult environment because of the lobbyists against it who pollute and disturb the natural balances we are trying to rediscover.la-coulae

Your dream? To see the next generation refuse the dogmas that they’re taught.

Your idea of happiness? To connect with your inner-self

An essential quality? That every human being is different.

The most beautiful place on Earth? Everywhere, if you can see past the material.

Your favorite swearword? Maudzit, but in the Quebécois pronunciation

Your motto? The dogs may bark but the caravan goes on.

Any last words? The Angel’s tale: “There is an angel that directs the creation of each human being. He carefully measures out and balances all of the good and the bad that await them. When the scales are perfectly even, he takes a feather from his wing and places it on misery’s side saying, ‘Now, life will have some meaning”

 

Jean-Baptiste Senat- Domaine Jean-Baptiste Senat

Wednesday, August 12th, 2009

More often than not, it seems that rebels must make do with post-humus gratification. Fortunately, Jean-Baptiste Senat, winemaker of his domaine and namesake, needs not to wait to benefit from his attitude towards work and life. Thirteen years ago, he brought his refreshing zeal back to his family’s vineyard, and now Sénat delivers wines that are more than fit to drink. They are charming and refreshingly expressive of the vineyard’s terroir of Minervois. At the end of the day, he confidently presents himself as a man of many facets; one who gets the best out of Languedoc, and encourages us all to do the same with his wine.

What is your job? I’ve been a winemaker since 1996.

Where is your domaine? In Trausse-Minervois, Aude.

Why did you choose wine? To share it with others.

Describe your wines in one word. Drinkable

Your best wine moment? It’s always the most recent: this morning I met Nicolas Carmarans, in Campouriez in North Aveyron. The wine was 100% Mansois, very desirious and full of character.

Your favorite dish? A filet of beef with fleur de l’Aubrac

Your favorite film? Vincent, François…et des Autres

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? Dry

A quotation about wine? None, I prefer to drink it. But in general, “Man is intelligent because he has hands” (Anaxagoras)

What are you most proud of? My three children, and that I founded a group of wine called Changer l’aude en vin, a play on words for changing water to wine.

Your dream? That those who work the land and harvest grapes by hand can also achieve the good life.

Your idea of happiness? A game of petanque with my kids.

An essential quality? Friendship

The most beautiful place on Earth? Where I grew up.

Your favorite swearword? Geli Polla!

Your motto? To do what I say, and say what I do.

Any last words? I wasn’t always a winemaker; I remind myself everyday that I’m lucky to do what I love.

Luc de Conti – Château Tour des Gendres

Monday, June 22nd, 2009


contiHaving spent years in the shadow of their prestigious Bordeaux neighbors, the wines of Bergerac are regaining their lustre of yesteryear… And Cyrano will not be one to contradict us! Luc de Conti has made himself the herald of the appellation, and, driven by passion as much as by perfectionism, he has introduced biodynamic farming to the family domaine, insisting on working with the appellation’s historic grape varieties and not hesitating to sacrifice vines at the altar of ‘terroir’ and quality. Authenticity and excellence are the buzzwords that he lives by and that he wants to help you discover…

What is your job? Winemaker.

 

Where is your domaine? South West and Périgord.

 

Why did you choose wine? It’s my passion.

 

Describe your wines in one phrase? Wines that follow the heart more and more, and Parker less and less.

 

Your best wine moment? Tasting very old dry white wines that everyone thought were past it.

 

Your favorite dish? A Carpaccio of Scallops with truffle oil, washed down with an old Anthologia dry white wine.

 

Your favorite film? “Les Tontons Flingueurs” with Lino Ventura and Francis Blanche every time.

 

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? Dead or alive. Myth or reality. In any case, complete and utter respect for it is the minimum that could be asked of a winemaker.

 

A quotation about wine? “Better wine from here than water from there” Francis Blanche.

 

What are you most proud of? In wine: Anthologia dry white. In life: my daughter Margaux.

 

Your dream? To bring Bergerac out of the shadow of Bordeaux and bring recognition for the dry white wines of the great Bergerac terroir.

 

Your idea of happiness? To live amongst 5 hectares of vines on a huge terroir and to work only according to my whims.

 

The most beautiful place on Earth? Tuscany.

 

Your favorite swearword? “Putain de bordel de merde”.

 

Your motto? Always striving for more, never satisfied.

 

Any last words? Anyone can make a living from wine, but what a hard life it is.



Serge Férigoule – Domaine le Sang des Cailloux

Friday, June 19th, 2009

farigouleIn a spectacular location, surrounded by scrubland and facing the Dentelles de Montmirail, the pebbles of Provence deliver a precious concoction… At the head of the Sang des Cailloux (Blood of the Pebbles) domaine since 1990, Serge Férigoule has brought it a breath of fresh air and has made this ancient terroir express itself fully, bathed in sun and mistral. Passing on passion and enthusiasm to his wines, he delivers us with harmonious and mouth-watering Vacqueyras, with the strength and roundness so characteristic of the appellation. Let yourself be seduced by this authentic Rhône ‘grand vin’…

What is your job? Winemaker.

 

Where is your domaine? On Sarrians, close to Vacqueyras. Appellation Vacqueyras, South Rhône.

 

Why did you choose wine? Because it’s like that. I wanted to go back to working the land and at university the vine imposed itself on me.

 

Describe your wines in one word? Personality.

 

Your best wine moment? When the wine speaks to me.

 

Your favorite dish? Fresh organic seasonal fruits and vegetables .

 

Your favorite film? Jeremiah Johnson.

 

What is ‘terroir’ for to you? Indispensable

 

What are you most proud of? Having ‘re’-constructed a domaine.

 

Your idea of happiness? Doing what one wants to.

 

The most beautiful place on Earth? Anywhere that you are happy.

 

Your favorite swearword? ‘Noùm de Dieu’.

Eric de Saint-Victor – Château de Pibarnon

Friday, May 15th, 2009


eric-de-saint-victorThe great wines of Provence are often talked about…Eric de Saint-Victor makes them. As the head of the majestic Château de Pibaron, he crafts wines of rich elegance. In an amphitheater of wines on the Mediterranean, the Mourvèrdreis elevated with notes of nobility. Quite a pleaure for us…

What is your job? Winemaker, that is to say artisan.

 

Where is your domaine? On the sea, in the limestone terraine of Provence. Pibarnon is on a terroir of Bandol like an rocky island a stone’s through away from the Mediterranean.

 

Why did you choose  to be involved with wine? I got into it during my teenage years. And by a desire to continue this beautiful adventure my parents, Henri and Catherine de Saint Victor, began.

 

Describe your wines in one word. Dense, elegant, with a touch of sex appeal.

 

Your best wine moment? Difficult to choose, there are so many…But Rayas 1995 remains an intense moment, a discovery of an exceptional wine.

 

Your favorite dish? A truffled egg scramble really makes me better! Especially if I was lucky enough to start with poutargue and Jabugo de Bellota.

 

Your favorite film? “Le Temps des Gitans” by Emir Kusturica


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What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? A solid place, mineral and beautiful, where only vines feel completely at ease.

 

A quotation about wine? Excuse me for citing a passage written on Pibarnon, but I find it so beautiful: “The mourvèdre shows its genius by revealing itself as charming and onctious. In Pibarnon, the Latin machismo dressses in silk and kisses hands. Capable of sin ging mean diatribes, even deaf dialogues elsewhere, here this vine holds a veritable discourse, intelligent and cultured, an expression of a unique terroir, a discourse of an antique buffet that was born one day on the Mediterranean shore.” Pierre Casamayor

 

What are you most proud of? To not make special vintages, but rather to present only one wine.

 

Your dream? To cross the Atlantic on a sailboat (racing rather than vacationing).

 

Your idea of happiness? Happiness is in the vines, run to it, run to it. Happiness is in the vines. Run to it, it’s within your reach…

 

An essential quality for you? Excuse me? A Cardinal? The South, of course!

 

The most beautiful place on earth? The Island of Bréhat, in Manche. But I am so spoiled every morning by the fabulous view right in front of the cellar, this vast amphitheater of vines and terraces, climbing the hill, like a hanging garden.

 

Your favorite swearword? T.V.P.M.F.D.P.C. : Tu Vas Te Prendre Une Mornifle, Fan De Putaing Con !

 

Your motto? Definitely not the euro! I prefer bartering with other winemakers: “your best bottle agains my best bottle!”

Any last words? Let our Rosé live! Don’t pervert it with this impending regulation they are putting together.


Eva Reh-Siddle – Domaine Bertagna

Tuesday, May 12th, 2009

eva reh siddle - bertagna

The Domaine Bertagna is atypical in more than one respect. First of all, a woman leads it…but what is more surprising about this winery in Vougeot– in the heart of the Côte de Nuits– is that it belongs to a family of…Germans! Eva’s father, proprietor of numerous wineries throughout the world, was in love with Burgundy and bought the winery. His daughter also fell under its charm and settled there in 1988. Since then, the winery has only grown in size, quality, and reputation…

What is your job? CEO

Where is your domaine? Vougeot in Bourgogne, in la Côte de Nuits

Why did you choose  to be involved with wine? Out of love, since the winery is a family affair
Your best wine moment? A good Riesling de la Moselle

Your favorite dish? Grilled steak with a salad and a cheese feuille de brick from the Citeaux Abby.

What are you most proud of? My children

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Your dream? A journey through Africa by car

Your idea of happiness? A good book, and seeing animals in nature

An essential quality for you? Good friends and good friends

The most beautiful place on earth? Our home during autumn.

 


Jean-Michel Gerin – Domaine Jean-Michel Gerin

Tuesday, May 5th, 2009


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Jean-Michel Gerin is one of the great winemakers raised by la Côte Rôtie…Dynamic, delighting us with his enchanting wines– taste the La Landonne, Les Grandes Places– he also is at the base of the infernal Trio of wineries of the Vallée du Rhône (with Laurent Combier and Peter Fischer) who have thrown themselves into a great new adventure in the Spainish Priorat…


What is your job? Winemaker

 

Where is your domaine? Ampuis – Côte-Rôtie , Vallée du Rhône Nord (Lyon et les Gones)

 

Why did you choose  to be involved with wine? Passion

 

Describe your wines in one word. Balance

 

Your best wine moment? Côte-Rôtie 1928, Domaine Hubert Cachet, a pretty baby full of potential, raspberries…

 

Your favorite dish? Simple food, like my wife makes, but also another great moment of happiness: “Tresse de loup au caviar” by the late Jacques Pic that I had the occasion of meeting several times.

 

Your favorite film? “Crooks in Clover” (Les Tonton Flingeurs) I heard the filming was a lot of fun. The acting was fantastic, a great French film from an era when French film still had an identity.

 

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? Always keep learning to try to understand it.

 

A quotation about wine? Drink up everyone!

 

What are you most proud of? The family (Monique my wife, Michael my eldest son who is joining the winery and Alexis for whom life is beautiful)

 

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Your dream? Having the pleasure of making wine with Chateau Grillet one seaon

 

Your idea of happiness? Simple, friends, a table, many bottles of wine and some food to eat.

 

An essential quality for you? Honor, the opposite of collaborators

 

The most beautiful place on earth? Corsica

 

Your favorite swearword? God damn it…and a lot of others

 

Your motto? Help yourself and heaven will help you;

 

Any last words? I want to try to pass our land on to future generations in the best conditions possible…



Fabio Montrasi – Château des Rontets

Thursday, April 30th, 2009



fabio-et-claire

Several years ago, Fabio and Claire were still architects in Italy. Then the call of the land worked its magic. Pouilly-Fuissé is Claire’s family property. The wines they craft are harmonious and relaxed. Here we meet an Italien from Burgundy, full of talent and humanity:

 

What is your job? Winemaker. Translator of literature.

 

Where is your domaine? Fuissé, Bourgogne.

 

Why did you choose  to be involved with wine? Look for my wife…

 

Describe your wines in one word. Elegant

 

Your best wine moment? My first real wine from Champagne. Jacques Selosse 1988.

 

Your favorite dish? Vitello tonnato (an Italian dish: fine slices of veal with a tuna and caper sauce)

 

*Your favorite film? “La Notte” by Michelangelo Antonioni

 

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? It is an overused term. I prefer the term “climate.”

 

A quotation about wine? colonnata2

 

Que lo beban,
que recuerden en cada
gota de oro
o copa de topacio
o cuchara de púrpura
que trabajó el otoño
hasta llenar de vino las vasijas
y aprenda el hombre oscuro,
en el ceremonial de su negocio,
a recordar la tierra y sus deberes,
a propagar el cántico del fruto.

(P. Neruda, Oda al vino)

 

What are you most proud of? To cultivate the land and to produce pleasure, to put it in a bottle and send it into the world.

 

Your dream? To write a novel.

 

Your idea of happiness? Happiness doesn’t last, and anyway, it is not the most essential aspect of life.

 

An essential quality for you? Respect

 

The most beautiful place on earth? Rome

 

Your favorite swearword? Cazzo!

 

Your motto? I don’t have one.

Any last words? Salute!

Aurore Monot-Devillard – Domaine des Perdrix

Friday, April 24th, 2009

aurore-devillardIn the Devillard household, working is a family matter. The family runs three vineyards in Burgundy -  ‘Le Domaine des Perdrix’ in Nuits Saint Georges, ‘Le Chateau de Chamirey’ in Mercurey and ‘Le Domaine de la Ferté’ in Givry. The wines they produce are utterly exceptional – uniting an impetuous freshness with a bewitching elegance. Aurore tells us more…

What is your job? Vintner

Where is your domaine? In Burgundy, in Premeaux-Prissey for the ‘Domaine des Perdrix’ and in Mercurey for the ‘Château de Chamirey’

Why did you choose wine? Because it is what it is, because I am what I am! Because the family passion caught me late in life… and I went for it…

Describe your wines in one word? Emotions: pleasure, conviviality, sharing…

Your best wine moment? A Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru “Aux Perdrix” 1996 from the Domaine des Perdrix, our first vintage

Your favorite dish? The gratin dauphinois, with lots of cream, from my childhood.

Your favorite film? ‘The Birds’ by Alfred Hitchcock and ‘Peau d’Ane’, a French fairytale

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? It is the Burgandy reality: richness and diversity 

A quotation about wine? “There are more old drunks than old doctors”, Sacha Guitry

What are you most proud of? Being able to pass on to my children all that I’ve received: the vines, a sense of savoir-faire, but also values and a certain idea of happiness

Your dream? To be able to change some of life’s irreparable events

Your idea of happiness? Sunshine, children’s laughter, and a decent glass of wine

An essential quality? Enthusiasm

The most beautiful place on Earth? Mercurey and its vine-covered glens, of course!

Your favorite swearword? ‘Putain de merde’ (But I’m trying to stop!!)chamirey

What is your motto? “If something is worth doing, then it is worth doing well” Nicolas Poussin

Any last words? What a joy it is to get up every morning, happy to go to work, and with the family too.