What is your job? Winemaker, meaning I try to understand the complexity of nature through what the vine is capable of creating if it’s well-taken-care-of.

Where is your domaine? In the Loire, on a site found almost nine centuries ago (1130) by the Cistercians. They were masterminds of the efficacy of the land and planted the vine that has been there since. 2008 was its 879th vintage running.

Why did you choose wine? After having worked for banks in the US and England, I felt a strong desire to return back to nature, something I felt I had neglected. My mother was looking after the vineyard; and the vine was there waiting for me.Describe your wines in one word. My wines are the result of the vine’s work, who, after summer, surround its seed (the grape) with a juicy pulp. Like any vine, it takes in the climate through its leaves and the soil in through its roots; however, every varietal does it its own way. Here, the varietal is Chenin and its cycle is long. Chenin is like a difficult child: when understood well it becomes genius; if not, it becomes rebellious. The wines from la Coulée de Serrant are unique because the domaine is so unique. This is why la Coulée de Serrant, in itself, is its own AOC.

Your best wine moment? I feel that the best moments happen when one is met with a sort of truth, void of all flattering artifice that presents a notion of beauty attained almost surgically (e.g. the technology that now gives us 300 different flavors). A moment, to me, is real when it’s the result of the truthful expression of a place.

Your favorite dish? Food simplified to its most basic state, as long as it comes from the right places. Leeks with vinaigrette, certain kinds of sushi, goat cheese from the South (as long as the goat lived outside without any hormones)

Your favorite film? La belle verte de Coline Serreau

What does ‘terroir’ mean to you? A terroir is the result of an unknown process (a force, even) that is fully contingent on its microclimate and its specific geology. Therefore, there are rules that can’t be ignored when ensuring that the terroir truly reveals itself through its wine or food. First and foremost, you can’t treat it with chemicals composed of molecules that have been denatured to a point where the workers who apply them must wear an oxygen mask and a bodysuit. The AOC’s two biggest enemies are the most prevalent chemical treatments used on the vine. First, there are the systemic treatments that seep into the plant and therefore into the sap. Since the sap is the only link between the plant and the sun, poisoning it then ruins this very crucial channeling of the taste generated by the climate. Second, the weed killers end up also killing the microorganisms in the soil, meaning they are ultimately taking away nourishment for the roots, and therefore from what terroir has to present in its wine.

A quotation about wine? “La Coulée de Serrant is one of the five best white wines in France” Curnonsky

What are you most proud of? Having taught another point of view of agriculture to youths all around the world; that it will turn back into an art form once we all begin to understand that the microcosm inherent in each terroir is the exact contradiction of a macrocosm. Teaching them that the art of agriculture is honing the surrounding natural forces that give life to the terroir. And finally teaching them about biodynamics, how it is a difficult environment because of the lobbyists against it who pollute and disturb the natural balances we are trying to rediscover.

Your dream? To see the next generation refuse the dogmas that they’re taught.

Your idea of happiness? To connect with your inner-self

An essential quality? That every human being is different.

The most beautiful place on Earth? Everywhere, if you can see past the material.

Your favorite swearword? Maudzit, but in the Quebécois pronunciation

Your motto? The dogs may bark but the caravan goes on.

Any last words? The Angel’s tale: “There is an angel that directs the creation of each human being. He carefully measures out and balances all of the good and the bad that await them. When the scales are perfectly even, he takes a feather from his wing and places it on misery’s side saying, ‘Now, life will have some meaning”

Tags: Biodynamic, Biodynamie, Interview, La Coulee de Serrant, Loire Valley, Nicolas Joly

This entry was posted on Thursday, September 3rd, 2009 and is filed under Blog- O Chateau. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.